How to make a full-fledged power supply with a range adjustable voltage 2.5-24 volts, it is very simple, can repeat each without having a radio amateur experience.

We will do from the old computer Block Food, TX or ATH without a difference, good, during the years of the PC Era, each house has already accumulated enough of the old computer iron and the BP is probably there too, therefore the cost of homemade will be insignificant, and for some masters it is zero rubles.

I got for the alteration of which AT block.

The more powerful will be used by the BP, the better the result, my donor is only 250W with 10 ampere on the tire + 12V, and in fact, with a load of only 4 and it does not cope, there is a complete output drawdown.

See what is written on the case.

Therefore, look at what current you are planning to receive from your adjustable BP, such a donor potential and lay down immediately.

The options for finalizing the standard computer BP set, but they are all based on the change in the blocking of the IC-TL494CN chip (its analogues of DBL494, ka7500, IR3M02, A494, MV3759, M1114EU, MPC494C, etc.).

Figure No. 0 TL494CN chip and analogs.

Let's see several options The execution of computer BP schemes, perhaps one of them will be your and deal with the strapping will be much easier.

Scheme number 1.

We will start work.
First, it is necessary to disassemble the BP housing, unscrew the four bolts, remove the lid and look inside.

We are looking for on the board the chip from the list above, if it does not turn out to be, then you can search the version of the Internet for your IS.

In my case, the KA7500 chip was discovered on the board, which means you can begin to study the strapping and the location of unnecessary parts to us that you want to delete.

For the convenience of work, first completely unscrew the entire board and take out from the case.

In the photo 220V power connector.

Disconnect the power and fan, drop or whining the output wires so that you do not interfere with us to understand in the scheme, leave only the necessary, one yellow (+ 12V), black (general) and green * (Start ON) if there is such.

There is no green wire in my AT block, so it starts immediately when turning on the outlet. If the ATH block, then it should have a green wire, it must be soldered to the "common", and if you wish to make a separate power on the case, then simply put the switch to the break of this wire.

Now we need to look at how much Volts are weekend large capacitors, if less than 30V is written on them, then it is necessary to replace them with similar, only with a working voltage at least 30 volts.

In the photo - black capacitors as a replacement option for blue.

This is done because our final block will not give out +12 volts, but to +24 volts, and without replacing the capacitors will simply explode at the first 24V test, after a few minutes of work. When selecting a new electrolyte, it is not desirable to reduce the container, it is always recommended to increase.

The most responsible part of the work.
We will delete everything excess in the IC494 strapping, and solder other nominal details so that the result is such a blockage (Fig. No. 1).

Fig. №1 Change in the strapping of the IC 494 chip (refinement scheme).

We will need only these legs of chips №1, 2, 3, 4, 15 and 16, do not pay for other attention.

Fig. №2 Option of refinement on the example of scheme number 1

Decoding designations.

It is necessary to do about so, we find the leg number 1 (where the point is on the case) of the chip and study that it is connected to it, all chains must be removed, disconnect. Depending on how you have in a specific modification of the board, the tracks will be located and the parts are created, the optimal finalization option is selected, it can be dropping and lifting one feet of the part (breaking the chain) or it will be easier to cut the track with a knife. Deciding with the plan of action, we begin the process of reworking according to the refinement scheme.

In the photo - replacement of resistors to the desired nominal.

In the photo - raising the legs of unnecessary parts, tearing chains.

Some resistors who are already in the scheme of the strapping can approach without replacing them, for example, we need to put a resistor on R \u003d 2.7K with a connection to "common", but there is already a R \u003d 3K connected to "general", it is quite suitable for us. And we leave it there without change (an example in fig. No. 2, green resistors do not change).

On the picture- Curl tracks and added new jumpers, old nominal nominations are written by a marker, it may be necessary to restore everything back.

Thus, we look at and remake all the chains on six legs of the chip.

It was the most difficult point in the alteration.

We make voltage and current controls.

We carry out variable resistors on the 22k (voltage regulator) and 330Ω (current regulator), we solder two 15 cm wires to them, other ends are soldered according to the circuit (Fig. No. 1). Install on the front panel.

Voltage control and current.
For control, we will need a voltmeter (0-30V) and an ammeter (0-6a).

These devices can be purchased in Chinese online stores at the best price, my voltmeter cost me with the delivery of only 60 rubles. (Voltmeter :)

Ammeter I used my own, from the old stocks of the USSR.

IMPORTANT - inside the device there is a current resistor (current sensor), which we need according to the scheme (Fig. No. 1), therefore, if you use an ammeter, then the current resistor is additionally not necessary, it is necessary to install without an ammeter. Usually it is done homemade, the wire d \u003d 0.5-0.6 mm, the turn to the turn to the entire length is wound on the 2-won't resistance of MLT, the ends are screwed to the conclusions of the resistance, that's all.

The body of the device will be done for themselves.
You can leave completely metallic, cutting holes for regulators and control devices. I used the trimming of the laminate, they are easier to drill and cut down.

Good laboratory block Nutrition is quite expensive pleasure and not to all radio amateurs it is on the pocket.
Nevertheless, at home, it is not possible to assemble a bad power supply unit, which is completely cope with the supply of various amateur structures, and can also be a charger for different batteries.
Affiliates are collecting such power supplies, usually from who are everywhere available and cheap.

This article pays little attention to the alteration itself of ATH, as to redo the computer BP for a radio ample qualification in laboratory, or for some other purposes, is usually not much difficult, but at novice radio amateurs there are many questions about this. Basically, what parts in the BP need to remove which to leave, that add to turn such a power supply into adjustable, and so on.

It is especially for such radio amateurs, I want to tell in this article in detail about the alteration of computer power supplies to the adjustable BP, which can be used and as a laboratory power supply, and as a charger.

For alteration, we will need a good ATX power supply, which is performed on the PWM controller TL494 or its analogues.
The diagrams of power blocks on such controllers in principle differ from each other are not much and everything is mostly similar. The power of the power supply should not be less than that which you plan to remake in the future from the converted block.

let's consider model schema Power supply ATX, 250 W. The power blocks "Codegen" scheme is almost no different from this.

Schemes of all similar BP consist of high-voltage and low-voltage parts. On the image pCB Power supply (below) from the side of the tracks, the high-voltage part is separated from the low-voltage wide empty strip (without tracks), and is located on the right (it is smaller in size). We will not touch her, and we will work only with a low-voltage part.
This is my fee and on her example, I will show you the option of reworking BP ATX.

The low-voltage part of the scheme we are considered, consists of the PWM controller TL494, the circuit on the operating amplifiers, which controls the output voltage of the power supply voltage, and if they are inconsistencies, it gives a signal to the 4th leg of the PWM of the controller to turn off the power supply.
Instead of an operating amplifier, transistors can be installed on the BP board, which, in principle, perform the same function.
Then the rectifier part goes, which consists of various output voltages, 12 volts, +5 volts, -5 volts, +3.3 volts, of which only a +12 volt rectifier will be needed for our purposes (yellow output wires).
The rest of the rectifiers and the parts associated with them will need to be removed, except for the rectifier "duty", which we need to power the PWM controller and the cooler.
The rectifier of duty gives two stresses. This is usually 5 volts and the second voltage can be around 10-20 volts (usually about 12).
We will use to power the second rectifier. The fan (cooler) is also connected to it.
If this output voltage It will be significantly higher than 12 volts, then the fan will be connected to this source, it will be necessary through an additional resistor, as will be further in the schemes under consideration.
In the diagram below, I marked the high-voltage part of the green line, rectifiers of "duty" - blue line, and everything else that it will be necessary to remove - red.

So, everything that is marked in red - we are dragging, and in our 12 volt rectifier, we change the regular electrolytes (16 volts) to the higher voltage, which will correspond to the future output voltage of our BP. It will also be necessary to fall in the chain of the 12th legs of the PWM of the controller and the middle part of the winding of the matching transformer - the R25 resistor and the D73 resistor (if there is in the diagram), and instead of them in the fee to have a jumper, which is drawn in the diagram with a blue line (you can simply close A diode and a resistor without having to have them). In some schemes, this chain may not be.

Next, in the strapping of Shima on its first leg, we leave only one resistor, which goes to the rectifier +12 volts.
On the second and third leg of Shima - we leave only the probleming RC chain (on the R48 C28 scheme).
On the fourth leg of Shima, only one resistor is left (in the diagram is indicated as R49. Yes, in many schemes between the 4th foot and 13-14 with the legs of Shima - it is usually a electrolytic capacitor, it (if any) does not touch it, since it does not touch It is intended for a soft start of BP. In my board it was simply not, so I put it.
Its container in standard diagrams of 1-10 μF.
Then we free 13-14 legs from all connections, except for the condenser with the condenser, and also release the 15th and 16th legs of Shima.

After all the operations completed, we should get the following.

This is how it looks like on my board (below in the picture).
The group stabilization throttle I rewound with a wire of 1.3-1.6 mm in one layer on the native core. Placed somewhere about 20 turns, but you can not do this and leave the one that was. With him, too, everything works well.
On the fee, I also installed another load resistor, which consists of two parallel resistors for 1.2 kΩ 3W, the overall resistance was 560 ohms.
The native load resistor is calculated by 12 volts of the output voltage and has a resistance of 270 ohms. My output voltage will be about 40-ka Volt, so I put such a resistor.
It must be calculated (with the maximum output voltage of the BP at idle) on the load current 50-60 mA. Since the work of BP is not desirable without load, so it is placed in the scheme.

View of the fee from the part side.

Now that it will be necessary to add to the prepared fee of our BP to turn it into an adjustable power supply;

First of all, so as not to wish the power transistors, we will need to solve the problem of stabilization of the load current and protection against short circuit.
On the forums on the alteration of such blocks, met such an interesting thing - with experiments with current stabilization mode, on the forum pro-Radio., Member of the Forum DWD. He brought such a quotation, I will give it completely:

"I somehow told that I could not get the normal operation of the UPS in the current source mode with a low reference voltage on one of the inputs of the PWM controller error inputs.
More than 50mv - normally, and less - no. In principle, 50MV is a guaranteed result, and in principle, you can get 25mB if you try. Less - no matter how. It works not steadily and is excited or confused against interference. This is the plus voltage of the signal from the current sensor.
But in the datashitis on TL494 there is a variant when a negative voltage is removed from the current sensor.
I redid the scheme for this option and got a great result.
Here is a fragment of the scheme.

Actually, everything is standard, except for two points.
First, the best stability when stabilizing the load current in a minus signal from the current sensor is an accident or pattern?
The scheme works perfectly with a reference voltage in 5mB!
With a positive signal from the current sensor, stable operation is obtained only at higher reference stresses (at least 25mB).
In the ratings of resistors, 10 and 10 hours stabilized at the level of 1,5A up to the CW of the exit.
I needed a current more, because of this I put the resistor on the 30th. Stabilization turned out at the level of 12 ... 13a with a support voltage of 15mB.
Secondly (and the most interesting), current sensor, as such, I do not have ...
Its role performs a fragment of the track on a 3cm length and 1 cm wide. The track is covered with a thin layer of solder.
If you use this track as a sensor on 2 cm, then the current is stabilized at 12-13a, and if at a length of 2.5 cm, then at level 10a. "

Since this result was better than the standard, then we will go through the same way.

To begin, it will be necessary to disappear from the minus wire. The average output of the secondary winding of the transformer (flexible braid), or better without dropping it (if the seal allows) - cut the printed path on the board, which connects it with the minus wire.
Next, you will need to have a current sensor (shunt) track, which will connect the average winding output with the minus wire.

Shunts are best to take from faulty (if you find) the shooting ampervoltmeters (Ceshek), or from Chinese shooting and digital devices. They look like this. It is enough will be a piece of 1.5-2.0 cm long.

You can of course try to do and so, as wrote above DWD., that is, if the track from the braid to the general wire is sufficiently long, then try it as a current sensor, but I did not do this, my fee got another design, here's the one where the red wire jumpers connected to the red arrow Spit with a common wire, and between them the printed tracks took place.

Therefore, after removing unnecessary parts from the board, I dropped out these jumpers and a current sensor from the faulty Chinese "Capture" was drunk.
Then the rotated throttle soldered into place, installed the electrolyte and load resistor.
Here it looks like a piece of fees with me, where I marked the installed current sensor (shunt) on the site of the wire jumper.

Then a separate wire requires this shunt to connect with shim. From the side of the braid - with the 15th leg of the shift through the resistor 10 ohms, and the 16th leg of the shim-A to connect with the overall wire.
With the help of a resistor, 10 ohms can be selected the maximum output current of our BP. In scheme DWD. There is a resistor of 30 ohms, but start with 10 ohms. An increase in the nominal value of this resistor - increases the maximum output current of the BP.

As I have already spoken, the output voltage of the power supply is about 40-ka Volt. For this, I rewound a transformer, but in principle you can not rewind, but to increase the output voltage in another way, but for me this method turned out to be more convenient.
All this I will tell you a little later, but for now we will continue and start installing the necessary additional details on the fee so that we have a working power supply or charger.

Once again I remind you that if you have on the board between the 4th and 13-14 legs of Shima, there was no condenser (as in my case), it is desirable to add it to the scheme.
You will also need to install two variables of the resistor (3.3-47 kΩ) to adjust the output voltage (V) and current (i) and connect them to the scheme below. Connection wires are desirable to do as short as possible.
Below I brought only a part of the scheme that we need - in such a scheme it will be easier to understand.
In the diagram, the newly installed details are indicated by green.

Scheme of newly installed parts.

I will give a little explanation according to the scheme;
- The topmost rectifier is digeon.
- The values \u200b\u200bof variable resistors are shown as 3.3 and 10 com - are those who found.
- The value of the resistor R1 is indicated 270 ohms - it is selected using the required current limit. Start small and you can turn out to be completely different, for example, 27 ohms;
- C3 capacitor I did not mark the newly installed details in the calculation that it may be present on the board;
- The orange line indicates the elements that may have to pick up or add to the circuit in the process of setup of BP.

Further we understand with the remaining 12 volt rectifier.
Check which maximum voltage is capable of issuing our BP.
To do this, we temporarily disappear from the first foot of the Shima - a resistor that goes to the output of the rectifier (according to the scheme above 24 kΩ), then you need to turn on the unit to the network, to pre-connect to the gap of any network wire, as a fuse - a conventional incandescent lamp 75-95 W The power supply in this case will give us the maximum voltage to which it is capable.

Before turning on the power supply to the network, make sure that electrolytic capacitors The output rectifier is replaced with more high-voltage!

All further inclusions of the BP are performed only with the incandescent lamp, it will save BP from emergency situations, in the case of any mistakes. In this case, the lamp will simply light up, and the power transistors will remain integer.

Further, we need to fix (limit) the maximum output voltage of our BP.
For this, the resistor on 24 com (according to the scheme above) from the first foot of Shima, we are temporarily changed to trimmed, for example, 100 com, and set them the maximum voltage you need. It is desirable to set up so that it would be less than a 10-15 percent of the maximum voltage, which is capable of issuing our BP. Then it is permanent into the place of the trim resistor.

If you are planning this BP to use as charger, then regular diode assembly Used in this rectifier, you can leave, since its reverse voltage of 40 volts and for the charger it is quite suitable.
Then the maximum output voltage of the future charger will need to be limited in the described method, in the region of 15-16 volts. For a charger of 12 volt battles, it is quite enough and not necessary to increase this threshold.
If you plan to use your converted PBA as adjustable block Nutrition, where the output voltage will be greater than 20 volts, then this assembly will no longer suit. It will need to be replaced by the highest voltage with the appropriate current of the load.
I put two assemblies on my fell on the fell on 16 amp and 200 volts.
When designing a rectifier on such assemblies, the maximum output voltage of the future power supply can be from 16 and to 30-32 volts. It all depends on the power supply model.
If, when checking the BP to the maximum-sized voltage, the BP gives the voltage less than the planned, and someone will need more voltage at the output (40-50 volts, for example), it will be necessary to assemble the diode bridge instead of the diode - assembly Leave to hang in the air, and the minus withdrawal of a diode bridge to connect to the place of the dropped spit.

Rectifier diagram with diode bridge.

With a diode bridge, the output voltage of the power supply will be twice as much.
Very good for the diode bridge, KD213 diodes are suitable (with any letter), the output current with which can reach up to 10 amps, CD2999A, B (up to 20 amps) and CD2997A, b (up to 30 amps). Best of all of course the latter.
They all look like this;

It will be necessary to consider the fastening of diodes to the radiator and the insulation of them from each other.
But I went to another way - just rewound the transformer and cost, as he said above. Two diode assemblies in the parallel, since the board was provided for this. For me, this path was easier.

The rewind transformer of special work is not and how to do it - Consider below.

To begin with, we drop the transformer from the board and look at the board, which conclusions 12-volt windings are soldered.

Basically meet two types. Such as in the photo.
Next will need to disassemble the transformer. It is easierless of course to cope with smaller in size, but the big is also amenable.
To do this, clean the core from visible varnish residues (glue), take a small capacity, pour water into it, put a transformer there, put on the stove, bring to the boil and "cook" our transformer is 20-30 minutes.

For smaller transformers, this is quite enough (can be less) and this procedure will absolutely won't hurt the core and transformer windings.
Then, holding the core of the transformer tweezers (can be directly in the container) - we try to disconnect the ferrite jumper from the W-shaped core to the sharp knife.

It is done quite easily, as the lacquer softened from such a procedure.
Then as neatly, we try to free the frame from the W-shaped core. This is also quite just done.

Then we ware the windings. First, half the primary winding is, mostly about 20 turns. We ware on it and remember the winding direction. The second end of this winding can not be disappeared from the place of its connection on the other half the primary, if it does not prevent further operation with the transformer.

Then we cite all the seconders. Usually there are 4 turns at both half of the 12-volt windings immediately, then 3 + 3 turns of 5 volt. I ware all, we disappear from the conclusions and wind the new winding.
The new winding will contain 10 + 10 turns. We wash it with a wire, with a diameter of 1.2 - 1.5 mm, or a set of thinner wires (easier to wind) of the corresponding cross section.
The start of the winding is soldered to one of the conclusions to which a 12-volt winding was soldered, 2 turns are moving, the direction of winding the role does not play, we take the removal on the "braid" and in the same direction that we started - we started 10 more turns and end We solder to the remaining conclusion.
Then isolate the secondary and we wake on it that we have shown earlier, the second half of the primary, in the same direction, as it was wound earlier.
We collect a transformer, we drive into the fee and check the work of the BP.

If in the process of voltage adjustment, any extraneous noises, sisks, cod, then to get rid of them, will need to choose the RC chain, circled with an orange ellipse below in the figure.

In some cases, you can completely remove the resistor and choose a condenser, and in some without a resistor it is impossible. You can try to add a condenser, or the same RC chain, between 3 and 15 shim legs.
If it does not help, then you need to install additional capacitors (circled orange), and their nominal approximately 0.01 μF. If it helps little, then install another 4.7 kΩ resistor from the second tide foot to the average output of the voltage regulator (not shown in the diagram).

Then it will be necessary to load the output of the BP, such as the Watt automotive lamp to 60, and try to adjust the current of the "I" resistor.
If the current adjustment limit is not enough, then it is necessary to increase the value of the resistor, which comes from the shunt (10 Ohm), and again try to adjust the current.
Do not put instead of the resistor trimmed, change its value, only by installing another resistor with a large or less rated.

It may happen that with increasing current - the incandescent lamp in the network wire circuit will light up. Then you need to reduce the current, turn off the power supply and return the quantitor's nominal value to the previous value.

More, for voltage regulators and current, it is best to try to purchase SP5-35 regulators, which are with wire and hard conclusions.

This is an analogue of multi-speed resistors (only one and a half of the turnover), the axis of which is combined with a smooth and coarse regulator. It is adjustable first "smoothly", then when it ends with the limit, it begins to adjust "rough".
Adjusting such resistors is very convenient, fast and accurate, much better than the long-turning. But if it is not possible to get them, then acquire ordinary multi-turn, such, such as;

Well, it seems that I all told you that I planned to bring on the alteration of computer BP, and I hope that everything is clear and intelligible.

If someone has any questions about the design of the power supply, ask them on the forum.

Good luck in design!

Many collect various radio-electronic constructions and sometimes a powerful power supply is sometimes required to use them. Today I will tell you how with a 250 watt output, and the ability to adjust the voltage from 8 to 16 volts at the output, from the ATX block of the FA-5-2 model.

The advantage of this BP is the protection at the output power (that is, from the KZ) and voltage protection.

The remake of the ATX block will consist of several stages

1. To begin with, we drop the wires, we only leave gray, black, yellow. By the way, to turn on this unit, you need to close the mass on the ground is not green (as in most ATX blocks), and the gray wire.

2. We drag out the parts from the scheme that stand in the chains + 3.3B, -5V, -12B (+5 volts do not touch yet). What is removed is shown red, and what to redo - is shown blue in the diagram:

3. Next, dropping (removing) chain +5 volts, a diode assembly in the chain of 12V is replaced by S30D40C (taken from the 5V chain).

We put the trim resistor and variable resistor with the built-in switch as shown in the diagram:

That is, so:

Now we turn on the network 220V and closed the gray wire to the mass, pre-putting a trimming resistor into the middle position, and the variable to the position at which it will be the smallest resistance. At the output, the voltage should be about 8 volts, increasing resistance a variable resistor Voltage will increase. But do not rush to raise the tension, since we do not have no voltage protection yet.

4. We make protection for power and voltage. Add two trimming resistors:

5. Indicator panel. We add a pair of transistors, several resistors and three LEDs:

The green LED lights up when the network is turned on, yellow - if there is a voltage on the output terminals, red - when the protection is triggered.

You can also embed a voltammermeter.

Setting up voltage protection in power supply

Setting the voltage protection is performed as follows: R4 resistor twist to the side where the mass is connected, R3 to maximize (greater resistance), then rotating R2 to achieve the voltage we need - 16 volts, but put on 0.2 volts more - 16.2 volts, slowly rotate R4 Before the protection is triggered, turn off the unit, slightly reduce the resistance R2, turn on the unit and increase the resistance R2 before receiving 16 volts at the yield. If protection worked at the last operation, then you have shifted with the rotation of the R4 and will have to repeat everything. After setting up the protection, the laboratory block is fully prepared for use.

Over the past month, three such blocks have already made, everyone cost me about 500 rubles (this is with a voltammermeter, which collected separately for 150 rubles). And one BP sold, as charging for a machine battery, for 2100 rubles, so that already in the plus :)

With you, I was Ponomaren Artem (Stalker68), to new meetings on the pages of the Techno Base!

& NBSP & NBSP On this page there are several dozen electrical concepts, and useful references to resources associated with the equipment repair theme. Basically, computer. Remembering how much strength and time sometimes had to spend on finding the right information, a reference book, or a scheme, I gathered almost everything here than when repairing and what was in electronic form. I hope for someone, something will come in handy.

Utilities and reference books.

- Directory in format.chm. The author of this file - Kucheryavhenko Pavel Andreevich. Most of the source documents were taken from the Pinouts.ru website - brief descriptions and cuts of more than 1000 connectors, cables, adapters. Descriptions of tires, slots, interfaces. Not only computer equipment, but also cell phones, GPS receivers, audio, photo and video of the equipment, game consoles, car interfaces.

The program is designed to determine the capacitance of the condenser in color marking (12 types of capacitors).

startcopy.ru - in my opinion, this is one of the best Runet sites dedicated to the repair of printers, copiers, multifunctional devices. You can find techniques and recommendations to eliminate almost any problem with any printer.

Power supplies.

Wiring for ATX Standard Power Connectors (ATX12V) with Nominal Wiring Nominations and Color Marking:

Block diagrams aTX power supply 250 SG6105, IW-P300A2, and 2 schemes of unknown origin.

BP NUITEK (Colors IT) 330U scheme.

Codegen 250W MOD circuit. 200xa1 MOD. 250xa1.

BP Codegen 300W MOD Scheme. 300x.

DELTA ELECTRONICS INC. Model DPS-200-59 H Rev: 00.

DELTA ELECTRONICS INC. Model DPS-260-2A.

BP DTK PTP-2038 200W scheme.

FSP GROUP Inc. Model FSP145-60SP.

Scheme of BP Green Tech. Model MAV-300W-P4.

HiPER HPU-4K580 Power Supply Schemes

SIRTEC INTERNATIONAL CO Scheme. Ltd. HPC-360-302 DF Rev: C0

SIRTEC INTERNATIONAL CO Scheme. Ltd. HPC-420-302 DF Rev: C0

INWIN IW-P300A2-0 R1.2 power supply circuits.

Power block diagrams inwin IW-P300A3-1 Powerman.

JNC Computer Co. Ltd LC-B250ATX

JNC Computer Co. Ltd. SY-300ATX Power Supply Scheme

Presumably manufacturer JNC Computer Co. Ltd. SY-300ATX power supply. The scheme is drawn by hand, comments and recommendations on improvement.

Power Supply Schemes Key Mouse Electronics Co Ltd Model PM-230W

Power Master Power Power Schemes Model LP-8 VER 2.03 230W (AP-5-E V1.1).

Power Master Power Power Schemes Model FA-5-2 VER 3.2 250W.

BP MaxPower PX-300W Scheme