Your question:

How to repair the microphone mobile phone?

Master's answer:

Repair inexpensive cell phones in special workshops are quite inexpedient. Usually, the cost of inexpensive and quite functional phones, even with two SIM cards begins from 40 cu. In order to make minimal repair or simply clean the contacts and inspect the device, the master will take you no less than 10 cu.

If you have found in the process of operating the phone, for example, Nokia-1209, such problems, such as the disappearance of sound from the microphone - do not run into the repair shop. In case the interlocutor you hear, and he does not hear you, then the problem can be in the microphone. It is not worth sinning for a malfunction of the transmitting part, otherwise how would the device be contacted before talking?

Carefully disassemble the phone and inspect the boards, contacts and details. Know what to pCB The microphone is not soldered by this phone model: it is connected via brass spring strips.

Remove the microphone from the phone and ring it with an ohmmeter. The working microphone will be ringing in one of the directions when the voltage falls is similar to the diode, and in the other direction - the melometer will show the resistance of about 20 com.

If the microphone does not come true at all, then, most likely, it is faulty. And to purchase a similar microphone will be a big effort, because non-standard model Now quite rare.

An amazing secret: if you carefully look inside the plastic case, where the microphone is located, then you will see that it has connected to the brass stripes by a couple of similar brass strips. Power dual adapter.

Pull the microphone from the holder and check the multimeter. Surely you will find a normal resistance level, which indicates the working capacity of the device and the presence of only bad contact. Brass strips work out, cheat, then collect the microphone and phone in the reverse order.

Surely, your phone will earn again in normal mode. So even if you do not have significant experience in the field of electronics, a small contact repair can produce yourself. Most often, after all, the devices do not work due to ordinary bad contact.

Many people face the situation when the microphone does not work on headphones, or instead of a clear voice flow transmits a loud, increasing noise. To deal with the causes of malfunction and repair, you need to diagnose the system and equipment.

Determine the cause of the fault will help Internet resource WebCammicTest. This site will help you find out if the problem really lies in the microphone breakdown or is all the case in the wrong settings of the system of your PC.

In the Windows 7 operating system, the situation is not uncommon when one or more drivers fail and require reinstallation. If you are the owner of this OS, pay increased attention to checking the performance of service programs.

The verification process is as follows:

• go to WebCammicTest.com;
• open the "Check Microphone" tab;
• start talking in your headset when the green indicator appears.

If there are sound oscillations on the screen, which are reflected in the corresponding window, it means that the device is in good condition, and its fault is associated with the system settings of the computer.

Causes of malfunction

One of the most common reasons why the microphone stopped working, are:

• lack of drivers for the system;
• improper microphone and PC connection;
• keeping settings.

No drivers

The situation where the necessary sound card drivers are installed incorrectly or not installed at all, is a fairly frequent reason why your interlocutor hears only long-lasting silence. As mentioned above, this problem is especially acute concerns system owners windows 7 .

In the Device Manager, select the "Sound, Game and Video Devices" tab and find your audio card in the list that opens. If this information is missing, or the sound card is defined as the "unknown device", it means that the drivers work incorrectly and you need to install new, downloading them from the official site.

Switching error

In the operating system windows 7 The problem with the headset may occur and if it is connected to the front, and not to the rear panel. A situation is possible when you could confuse the connectors for connecting the headset, which caused the complete inoperability of the latter.

Sound output failure

The answer to the question why the microphone does not work, can be a failure in the system of sound card settings. To test this assumption in OS windows 7 Click on the speaker icon in the lower right corner of the screen. In the window that opens, you must see the connected microphone and characteristic "jumping" in the sound diagram. Click on the microphone icon and set the maximum volume level, then click the "Enable" button.

Headphones with a microphone are one of those types of equipment that often fails. If you want your headset to serve you for a long time - choose proven companies, such as: Bloudi, Sony, Philips and others. An excellent solution for gamers and just for lovers virtual communicationCombining quality and relatively inexpensive cost, the A4Tech Bloody G500 model will become. In addition to an attractive appearance, the model boasts the impressive characteristics that will provide high sound quality to its owner.

It is known that the plug breakage at the end of the wire is the most common headphone fault.

From frequent beggars, strong jerks and other mechanical loads, thin wires break or rut. At the same time, as a rule, some kind of ear ceases to work or, as in my case, both.

Sometimes there is a broken wire, in this case the sound is distorted beyond recognition: almost completely disappear high and medium frequencies. This is due to the fact that the right and left phone / player amplifiers are included in the antiphase and their output signals almost completely compensate each other.

It also happens that the stereo effect simply disappears.

Often there is no sound in the ears, but the microphone works, as if nothing had happened. However, if the microphone wire breaks, the control buttons on the headset cord are stopped with the microphone.

Most often, the cause of any described malfunction in a broken wire in the immediate vicinity of the plug.

Sometimes damage to the wire is visible to the naked eye, but most often it is hidden under insulation.

How to fix headphones at home if the wire broke away from the plug

Now I will tell you how to repair vacuum headphones-droplets with my own hands, if the wire broke away from the plug.

I will show the repair process on the example of the headphones Monster Beats by Dr DRE, which I got along with the HTC Sensation XE phone. They served faithfully for almost 4 years, until, in the end, the plug did not break.

The plug in these headphones is a regular mini-jack (3.5 mm) with four contacts - the right ear, left ear, microphone and general. By the way, it is interesting, this headset has buttons so that you can rewind-back songs, but there are no special contacts on the connector. For all buttons, everything is miraculously used all the same microphone contact.

In short, now I will try to repair these headphones at home, and if something goes wrong - and a fic with him! - I'll go buy new ones. Moreover, the choice today is just huge. And even more so, I'm far from the audiophile and they are generally somehow any, if only convenient were.

Initially, headphones looked like this:

Headphones with microphone and control buttons, so the plug 4 of the contact, and inside 5 wires. The headset connector, of course, inseparable.

As I said, this method of repair is suitable only if the problem is in the connector - one earphone does not work, the right or left ear, the microphone, the buttons are not pressed, the sound disappears, if you move the wire at the plug, etc. etc.

So, if you are firmly convinced that the headphone plug is really subject to replacement - go further.

How to fix headphones if one ear does not work (or both at once)

In order for us to have the highest quality and super-creative plug, which no one else, we will need:

1. Two sleeves of the caliber of the 38th caliber. Suitable from the Makarov pistol or the like. I, for example, took the brass sleeve from the trauma (AKBS 9mm P.A.)
2. Drill with drills (3, 3.5, 7 and 9.5mm)
3. Hoven for metal
4. Epoxy adhesive
5. Syringe on 5 cubes
6. Little vice
7. Sandpaper
8. Soldering iron with sharp sting (solder, flux and tablet aspirin are welcome)
9. A small plank, about 30x30 mm and a thickness of somewhere 20 mm

We will do a M-shaped plug, because It is better than straight (more reliable and more compact). So, let's go.

Step 1st

To begin with, we will make a small snap for the convenience of working with the sleeves so that you can safely clamp them into vice and do not stop and do not scratch. We take our area and drill a hole in it with a drill by 9.5 mm, then they do the cutting knife.

It is necessary that approximately such a design.

Step 2nd

Now we can handle our sleeves, without fear to spoil their chic appearance:

Step 3rd

Since I had a shooting sleeve, then the capsules were dents from the brisk. But we need everything to be beautiful, so we knock both capsules with a selection, hammer and direct hands:

Then reinforce one of them with light blows from the inside of something suitable (I took the shank from the broken drill of a suitable diameter).

For forest beauty, you can still grind out the sandpaper:

After that, a beautiful and smooth capsule will be pressed into the former place:

If you have new sleeves, not shooting, then you can only knock the caps from one of them (you can immediately throw it away, it will not need it). I don't touch the second sleeve yet.

Step 4th

Then pushing the sleeve without capsule in vice and drill the bottom from the inside with a drill by 7 mm. You need to drill in such a way to make the bottom of the sleeve as thin as possible. Those. The drill must almost close to the hole from under the caps (I left about 0.5 mm stock).

Then neatly cut off the bottomsko so that the pybery is turned out:

Step 5th

Now we take our sleeve with capsule and shorten it up to 13 mm:

Carefully process the edges of the sandpaper to get a smooth and strictly rebuilding axis of the sleeve slice.

As a result, two halves must be perfectly inserted into each other:

Step 6th

It's time to do the old plug and wires.

To begin with, it is very careful, with the help of a sharp knife, I rejoice the old connector to remove everything too much and leave the plug itself with four contacts and soldered wires:

We remember, but better write, where what wire was soldered. On my headphones from HTC (with a microphone) was the next pinout:

Step 7th

We disappear the old wires from the connector, we clean the cable, detect the ends and sit down a piece of heat shrink (diameter 2.5 mm, length 21 mm).

To inform the conduction in the lacquer isolation, it would be nice to take a tablet aspirin, but it did not have it, therefore it cost the ordinary rosin. If you work with aspirin, then you know the pairs of this nausea is terribly poisonous. You were warned.

Step 8th

Drills the hole of the suitable diameter in the wall of the sleeve. In my case, the hole was perfect 3 mm:

Step 9th

We do the cable into the hole and solder the wires of the headphones and the microphone (in strict accordance with the pinout!):

Step 10th

Well, the last stage: with a syringe measure 0.5 ml of a hardener and 5 ml of epoxy resin. Most thoroughly mix the components among themselves.

Then, to drive all air bubbles, heating the mixture in a water bath to 80 degrees.

Fill out our liner to the edges with the resulting composition, we put everything in our places and, with the help of mixtalk and reducing devices, fix all this at least 12 hours (and better for a day):

Step is last

When everything freezes, remove the design on the light of God and get aesthetic pleasure from the work done.

What could be more pleasant than reproducing broken headphones from the phone?

Eh, I would also have headphones in the form of cartridges - in general there would be a fairy tale :)

If it is too difficult for you and I would like something easier and quickly, we bring to your attention to the restoration of the headphone plug using the old ballpoint handle and epoxy resin.

Well, now you know for sure what to do if the headphones broke into the connector. And if your hands and legs grow from different places, everything will turn out much better better, than me!

In this article, I will tell you how to repair headphones or headset for a computer, or a mobile phone, we will look at the main breakdowns and ways to eliminate them.

The main breakdowns of headphones:

Repair of the headphone cliff

Wire breaking the most common cause of headphones output. To repair the wire we will need:

• solder;
• scalpel or nippers;
• heat-shrink tubing;
• termoklay;
• thread.

First, it is necessary to determine the place in which there was a breakdown, since the outer braid of rubber may not have externally visible deformations. You can find the wiring break site by connecting the headphones to the sound source and bending the wire from the connector to the speakers find a place when the sound is bent in the headphones. Having determined the breakdown, cut out the area of \u200b\u200bthe wire, taking several centimeters before and after the breakdown site. Next, we clean the wire from the external insulation and we are brought out the wires. How to post the headphone wire is quite relevant. Now I will tell you how to do it high quality and quickly. To do this, we will need a plate, flux (for example, organic flux F-99), solder and soldering iron.

We apply a flux to the wire, lay the wire on a skip and press for a few seconds a soldering iron making them movements as if you paint the lacquer from the wires.

I climb all the wires, we put a thin heat shrink tube on each wire, we solder the wires, observing the color range and with the help of a lighter, or the soldering iron we sit the heat shrinking tube.

The shrink tube performs the role of the insulator and does not allow the closure of the wires between themselves. Now we need to ensure the strength of our connection. To do this, we fold the wires of the letter Z and with the help of the thread we make a bandage of our compound.

The last stage of repairing the wires of the headset wears a practical and aesthetic value. With the help of the soldering iron, we carefully applied the thermocons to our bandage, on the one hand the thermocons will not give a thread to operate on the other side will give a normal appearance to connect the wires. If you get a black thermoclay, you can not succeed on top of the bandage to wear a shrink tube of the corresponding diameter.

For a couple of words about the artistic modeling of a thermal oil, if you warm up the thermocons and moisten your fingers, it is possible to give it to it with your fingers to give it any shape. Irregularities can be made glossy with.

Earphone plug (connector)

Before fixing the plug, we need to carefully disassemble it, for this, carefully the scalpel make the casing along. The headphone breakdown (sample) can be divided into breakdowns associated with mechanical deformation:

• the last link, as a rule, this link remains in the opposite part of the device and it can be removed only with sewing and tweezers for sMD Montaja. Such a breakdown is eliminated only by the replacement of the plug.
• the turn of the first link (total) around its iszing is characterized by changing the sound to "metallic under water" and a decrease in volume. In this case, the repair is in the propagation of contact between the link and the petal of contact.

And not related to the mechanical deformation of the plug is a wire break at the base. It is treated with shortening the wires for a couple of centimeters above the breakdown and soldering into place in compliance with the color scheme.

If you cut the wire and do not know which where it was soldered, do not despair! With the help of a multimeter, it can be easily determined. We put the multimeter to measure the resistance measurement and alternately find 2 pairs of wires between which you will see an equal value (depending on the resistance of the winding of your speakers and lies as a rule within 16-100 ohms. We take from each pair of one wire, we are gossying together The wire we solder it to the first (most massive) link. The remaining wires solder to 2 and 3 link. You will probably have a question how to determine where the right channel is soldered and where the left can be set to connect the headphones to and running the sound setting alternately to click on the left and the right column. There is a second option: Run an audio player, for example, vintamp and adjust the balance comparing with the heard we conclude about the correctness of the channel connection.

Course of microphone

Capsule electret microphones are installed in the headsets. Inside the microphone there is an amplifier, which causes the need to comply with the polarity when connecting the microphone. Microphones are sensitive to the deformation of the membrane, so do not try to clean the hole in the microphone. Also, microphones are very sensitive to the effects of high temperatures, on this, the microphone is needed quickly and neatly. Before starting to solder, it is advisable to apply an organic flux to the contacts of the microphone, it will improve the heat transfer and the touch time by the soldering iron necessary for the implementation of a reliable soldering. You can only check the performance of the microphone only to replace it on another, or connect it to another obviously operating device. And yet it is possible to check the working microphone or not if you have an oscilloscope (or active speaker system) and the microcircuit of the operating amplifier (any), you can assemble a simple scheme (for example, an inverting amplifier with one polar power.

Do not forget that the microphone needs to be powered through the resistor, and the signal must be removed through a separator capacitor with a face value of 0.1 μF. This will clearly see the microphone works or not, stressed signal From the microphone will change the picture on the screen in the clock with your voice. If the oscilloscope is not, you can connect the circuit output to active acoustic systemIf the microphone is alive - it will get a meamafon.

Repair of the dynamics of the headset.

If the output power is exceeded, the speaker may exit, the winding wire burns out. The integrity of the dynamics winding is checked using a multimeter.

At the working speaker, the winding resistance will be equal to the winding resistance of the second dynamics + \\ - 10% as a rule, this value is 16-100 ohms. In case the sound in the dynamics is present, but he is with wheezing, this means that the winding of the Castle, but she, either drank from the membrane, or clings for a magnet. This may be a consequence of impact (displacement of the magnet), or the result of exceeding the power (boiling varnish in the winding and "hooks" of it about the magnet, as well as the separation of the part of the coil from the membrane). This requires accuracy. The coil to the membrane can be glued with a superclaud, it is possible to apply it using a toothpick or sharpened matches. In order to avoid jamming of the diffuser, do not connect the body of the dynamics and the membrane until the adhesive drying is completely drying. Accelerate the drying, you can put the speaker under the table lamp.

Repair of headphone volume control.

One of the weakest places of headphones is the volume control, subject to its frequent use. Volume control is dual variable resistor Consisting of 2 bands of resistive spraying and 2 sliders moving along the surface of the resistive layer when the wheel of the regulator is rotated.

During operation, dust, which is the cause of poor contact between the slider and the resistive layer, falls on the surface of the resistive layer. This breakdown is manifested in the form of a cod when adjusting the volume level, or the disappearance of the signal in the headphones. The volume of volume control is to apply to the surface of the resistive graphite lubrication or technical vaseline. At the same time, reliable contact is restored and crackle disappears when the regulator is rotated.

Repair of the headphones (suspension on which speakers are attached).

The breakdown of the headphones is one of the most common. Some manufacturers that make a bet on the quality of their products have already brought to 0 the possibility of such a breakdown of their headsets. Instead of classic plastic arms, they use flexible metal spring suspensions coated with PVC layer or rubber. But we have a speech about the classic plastic suspension and the method of its repair.

In the photo we see that the handle is reversed in half. For its repair, we will need several slim metal plates, screws m2 or m3, epoxy 2-component glue and. First, we apply our plates to the arms and with the help of a marker, or a pencil make a mark: where we have to drill holes. Holes in arms and plates and tighten the design with screws. Please note that the metal plates are long enough and do not end immediately after the screw hole, it adds the reliability of the design during loads. Also pay attention to the 3rd plate, which is located on the back of the headphones. It is installed before pouring epoxy glue, and it is also designed to increase the strength of headphones and durability to the coming tests.

Repair of the mounting of the microphone.

The mounting of the microphone (bar, "antenna") is usually made elastic and pretty hard to mechanically damage, but still it can be broken. In the photo, we see as a result of falling the headset, a plastic base of the microphone fastening was damaged. Its function was adjusting the position of the microphone in the vertical plane. Naturally, the full functionality will not be restored, but reliably fix the microphone in one position is quite possible. To do this, we will need: drill, wire with a diameter of 0.6-0.8 (mm) and thermocons. By defining the optimal position of the microphone fastening, we plan places from which we will drill holes. Next, with the help of the wire, we tighten (stitch) in 3-4 points base mount and headphone housing. Wire from the inside of the headphone twist with the help of pliers. Next, we apply on top of the thermoclay, giving it a form we need with the help of fingers moistened with water. Next, you can take nail polish, or spray-paint and cover the place of repair.

Send us yours, or register and publish them yourself.

You have a question How to fix the microphone wire? This simple enough. Microphones send audio to other devices through special cables.

Most high-class microphones are connected using connectors. They have a cylindrical connector at both ends and can fit in many mixers and. Sometimes one of the three wires passing through the microphone can separate from its connective plate. This can be corrected by re-soldering connections.

How to solder XLR connector for microphone cable

• Soldering iron
• solder
• kusachachi

instructions

1. 1. Unscrew the connector at the end of the microphone cable. There will be a metal section - the end of the fork - and the plastic case is immediately under it. Grasp the section and unscrew the plastic part to separate it from the fork.
2. 2. Remove the metal housing to release the wires in the fork. There may be a plastic winding that can be removed.
3. 3. Check the wires on the microphone cable. There are only three of them who are attached to the fork (most often red, blue and copper). Each of them leads to a small plate. Look, perhaps any of the wires are separated from its place of attachment. Pay attention to how which of them is connected, and from which side. Draw a diagram or take a picture, it will help you not make a mistake.
4. 4. Press the tip of the heated soldering iron in touch between the wires and the plate. After soldering, you need to disconnect each of them so that the end of the connector is free from them.
5. 5. Cut 3 centimeters at the end of the microphone cable with bodies. After that, it is necessary to clean 1.5 centimeters from isolation and reveal three wires. Extend the ends of each.
6. 6. Place the wire in its place, use the compound scheme made. Run the soldering iron and a piece of solder to the connection point between the wire and plate. Corresponding to the soldering iron with a solder, connect the contacts and place them in place. Repeat this procedure for two other wires.
7. 7. Place the plastic fastening back to the plug, on the metal case above it, and re-screw the plastic bottom, close. Check the repaired wire for performance.